High Power Led Driver for COB Leds

You are going to want to make a current driven set-up.As high power LEDs get hot and/or age they will change their characteristics. You are going to want to account for that and the easiest way is driving a 4. 2A (or, advisably 4A with brand Unknown eBay type) and let the voltage be what it is.The cheap Chinese drivers usually drive a current about 10% below the normal advised LED current for that type and dimension. The best driver I have seen (German built) was 97% efficient given a narrow input voltage band and exactly the specified LED. My own measurements of cheaper models come between 70% worst case and 91% best case. This differs from type to type and greatly with input voltage.Many cheap modules also have an input pin somewhere on the main chip that allows 0-2V or PWM (3. 3V or 5V) dimming, if you know what to look for. In case you want to add that later.I have not had the need to import and/or use 100W 24V COB drivers yet, so no specifics on that exact type.If you use an Atmel to drive it with PWM, again make sure you use a current measurement for your feedback parameter. As for driving them with AC, there are undoubtedly modules that do exactly that, but I do not know any specifics.If you build something yourself for 4 lamps, that are well protected from touching and moisture (this includes the LED's metal base plates and such) you could potentially regulate the current with an Arduino through 4 lamps in series with a voltage taken directly from a rectified AC.This, however is risky and requires a lot of careful experimentation and testing with a low voltage, low current power source to avoid damage (48V, 3A and one LED PWM'ed, for example, no risk of death and if you accidentally short the PWM transistor the supply will limit to 3A, leaving your lamp in tact). And officially you need to perform power factor correction, but if it's for hobby / one-off there's worse devices in the world that used to be mass produced, so do not worry too much.If you are working with just the LEDs, keep a VERY close eye on temperatures as well, they need a lot of help getting rid of heat and just the LED's back surface will absolutely not be enough for more than a watt or 2

1. TLC59116F (i2c led driver) everything seems ok but LED doesn't work

The problem was actually very easy, I missed in the datasheet that you need to have a resistor Rext connected to pin 1 - GND, and this resistor defines the maximum output current. Without it no current is outputted, ever

2. Is there a type of bulb other than incandescent that works from -50 to 40C?

-50 degrees is unrealistic. Even mil-spec components wo not work that cold. It sounds like you just tossed that out there, so I will assume you mean something more practical. Your experience with fluorescent lights has been disappointing because you are using J random cheapie fluorescent lights, with no regard to their cold performance. What you need is a programmed start ballast. Those work a different way. You know fluorescent tubes have preheat filaments (not unlike an incandescent filament) in the ends. Those can "warm up" the tube so it takes a much lower strike voltage. That also means less spallation on startup (the thing that leads to black rings on the tubes), which greatly increase tube life. The colder the bulb is, the higher a voltage it needs to strike. Programmed-start ballasts are readily available for $20-ish. Since they use the filaments, they need 2-wire non-shorting tombstones, so if you currently have instant-start ballasts, you will need to change the tombstones. A competently built LED will also work just fine in the very cold, assuming the driver and LED can handle the temperature. It will come on instantly and reach full brightness quickly as the chip itself warms up. Actually, it will run slightly more efficiently in the cold. Add some resistive heaters on thermostats, so they preheat the fluorescent ballast, LED driver and LEDs proper. They should shut off once the device they are heating reaches 32F. You do not need to preheat the fluorescent tubes; the programmed-start sequence will do that

3. Is it safe to adjust pot on sc-300 led driver by supernight

I am going to assume that as long as the total power output does not exceed 360 watts that adjusting the pot is safe. Maybe I should open the device up and look at the ratings of certain components, but I am not a power electronics guru. I will update this answer with results

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