Find the Foundation of a Cyndrical Water Tank Is a Cylinder 18 Yd in Diameter and 5 Yds High. How Ma

You need to look at your local building codes and also consult with a structural engineer. Would you really build something this expensive on advice from this forum?

1. Help, could my Hot water tank start on fire?

The flammable part would have dissipated by now. The aerosol part is generally the flammable part. You should not spray near an open flame and your water heater has an open flame unless it is electric.

2. My fish are dying even though i have made water in tank safe, please help?

Algae is the impediment, only no longer the classic algae. that's loose floating. 2 Sucker fish, will the two kill your distinctive fish by using sucking off their slime coat if this would nicely be a chinese language algae eater, or improve to come again to be a 2 foot monstrosity if this would nicely be a classic pleco. Any chemicals will injury fish. precise now, do a blackout. turn off the lights furniture over the tank, and do not enable any gentle in. hide it up with some subject. Do no longer feed and allow no gentle in for 3 days. additionally, until your faucet water is loaded with neutrients, distinction water, 50 % is not too extreme.After that, feed much less, fish can circulate weeks with out nutrition, verify your tanks gets no better than 8 hours of light an afternoon, and easiest has a classic flourrescent strip ligh, until planted, and recieves no direct sunlight hours. additionally, get better exams. verify ammonia and nitrite are at 0, nitrate below 40ppm, and phospates below 1ppm. All those concerns can reason the algae. do no longer substitute pH. this would have introduced approximately it. I evaluate that pH down has phosphates in it. additionally, the fluctuating pH between tank and "optimal" is a techniques lots worse than a gradual pH to which your tank has adapted to. inspite of the undeniable fact that impractical, in case you tend to pay approximately $a hundred get a uv sterilizer. this could kill the algae, on the side of any bacteria.

3. Green water in tank after three hours?

The reason this stuff "behaves" differently than the various algae is that green water is made up of millions of tiny protists like Euglena and Paramecium. If one takes a microscope at 30X & looks at a drop of aquarium water they will see those creatures mentioned and several others often illustrated in introductions to using a microscope. They are mobile & feed on smaller creatures. But they also have chlorophyll and produce food photosynthetically. If their population density becomes great, that pigment will begin to turn the water green. Whereas more frequent partial water changes will discourage the growth of algae (which thrive on the fish wastes in the tank) the protists (like fish, crustaceans, turtles) thrive in the presence of clean new water and multiply in it. The excellent light on your tank, plus a possible heat lamp, cause the photosynthesis to work over time. Turtles are such prolific producers of ammonia as a waste product that the green water multiples even faster. Pulling the shade to reduce that sun & diffused light is wise & a good first step. Can you cut down the time the light is on a little and feed a little less? When you did your massive water change, there must have been some of that green water in the gravel. Gravel vacuuming will get a lot of that settled green water, feces & dirt out of that substrate. You may need to do that a couple of times to get ahead of the stuff. Possibly a complete water change & several rinses of the gravel will be needed - not something easily done in a larger aquarium. Look at these aquarium water changers by Python & Aqueon. (The cheap version is a hose & water bed faucet fixture.) Sometimes in still water the green animals will settle out to the bottom and even suffocate. Their deaths can suck a lot of oxygen out of the tank and the water may really stink. The crystals you have been advised to put in the water are probably what is called a flocculant. Floating particles (in this case the protists) are attracted to the crystals' molecules. The particles get bigger, heavier and settle out of the water (or are flocullated out.). At that point you have to do a massive amount of water vacuuming to get that soon to be dead stuff out of the gravel or tank bottom. Regular filters will get large pieces of dirt out of the water through mechanical filtration. We do need to rinse that out until the big stuff is out. But the filter's primary purpose is to support the nitrogen cycle by providing habitat for the beneficial bacteria that break the very toxic ammonia into the merely toxic nitrites that also spike and are then broken down into the less toxic nitrates by other bacteria. Even that stuff becomes poisonous in quantity, which is why advanced aquarists have to be very faithful in doing at least 50% weekly partial water changes with water of the same temperature, previously treated with an appropriate water conditioner left in an open container (or gallon containers at least over night (to "breathe" out noxious gases like chlorine, free nitrogen & carbon dioxide & to absorb a little free oxygen). Ironically when we take virtually all of the water out of an aquarium to clean it, we also destroy many or most of the beneficial bacteria. 90% changes with a quick refilling of the tank may be better. A friend of mine has a couple of turtles in a tank much like yours. He could probably have another 5 or 10 of your 182 liter/48 gallon containers in the back yard raising Daphnia, important fish food animals that thrive on filtering green water out of the water column. That sponge filter you mentioned sounds like one with very small pores. In that case one can guess that it is not there just to provide habitat for beneficial bacteria, but to mechanically remove the green water. That will need frequent squeezing under a laundry sink faucet. You may have to continue to make frequent partial water changes just to keep that water from fouling. The clogged gravel can become anaerobic where it breaks down waste material w/o oxygen. A dangerous product released is hydrogen sulfate - that rotten egg smell. It is better that the urine and some fecal material is converted into green water as opposed to letting the turtles swim in an ammonia solution. Reminds one of what shore plants or duckweed in a turtle pond. So some green water may be a part of your turtle's environment. You would still have to do the frequent water changes. Perhaps routing water to a second well planted tank of fast growers used as a plant filter would help clear that water. Good luck & all the best!

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